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Knit vs Woven

Foto del escritor: Knit-Lab PeruKnit-Lab Peru

There are two basic kinds of fabric in the fashion world: there is knit fabric (it stretches) and there is woven fabric (it does not stretch). In simple terms: Knit fabric is t-shirt fabric and woven fabric is mens dress shirts or bed sheets.

 

Because knit fabric is made from one continuous thread (much like the one continuous yarn in your hand-knitting), it stretches all over. Woven fabrics, on the other hand, will only stretch diagonally or as a sewer might say, on the bias.

 

Why is it important to distinguish? When you enter the garment manufacturing world you need to know this basic distinction to establish what kind of fabric your garment uses. Another reason for knowing the difference between woven and knit is because most knit manufacturers work with one fabric or the other, not both.



What should I choose?


If you have picked up a pattern and you are keen to whip it up, it is important you choose the correct type of fabric. It should clearly say if it is a knit or stretch pattern or if it is unsuitable for knits. Some of the reasons why you need to stick to the recommended fabric category are:


  1. A knit fabric will stretch and then return to its original state. This is important to be able to pull it over your head or up over your hips. The stretchiness will enable it to mold to the curves of your body. On the other hand a woven will only stretch if it has a synthetic fiber like nylon in the weave. A woven will allow you to crease it and create pleats and folds.


  2. Your knits won’t fray, but wovens do. Therefore, you don’t need to finish the raw edges of your knit fabrics.


  3. To get in and out of woven garments you are usually going to need to insert zips, buttons or some kind of closure. Knits will allow you to stretch the neck or waist to pull them on.




 


What is the difference between knit and woven?


Both have their benefits. Knits are faster to work with because you don’t need to finish seams or insert zips and buttons. But they are trickier to handle; curling up and stretching as you work with them.

 

You need to use different techniques with each. All those stretch stitches on your sewing machine are necessary when you are sewing with knits. You will also need to change your needle, using a ballpoint or stretch needle for knits and a universal or sharp needle for wovens.

 

The basic difference between woven and knit fabrics is in the yarn or thread that composes them. A knit fabric is made up of a single yarn, looped continuously to produce a braided look.




 

Multiple yarns comprise a woven fabric, crossing each other at right angles to form the grain.

Stretching is one of the tests to know whether a fabric is knit or woven. A knit fabric will stretch easily along its width, slightly less along its length, and it may also produce a run or lose its shape if stretched too much. A woven fabric will have barely any give along its width, and only slightly more give along its length.

 

The wrinkle test is another way to measure your fabrics. Take a small sample of your fabric and ball it up in your fist. If it springs back with little effect on shape or smoothness, it is most likely a knit. If the creases from your test stay in the fabric, it is most likely woven.

 

Apply the fray test if you’re still unsure. Manufacturers apply blobs of glue or starch on the lengthwise edge of flat knits to prevent curling. The width edge of knits will often fray, but woven fabrics have a selvage on their width edge. Therefore, unlike knits, woven fabrics will fray along their lengthwise edge.

 

Hope you enjoyed this article! Here at Knit-Lab Peru we are committed to offer premium quality products that combine modern technology with ancestral tradition. Contact us if you want to learn more or work with us.

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